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I picked up the phone and Jay McSharry said, "I’m opening an Italian restaurant in Portsmouth and I need some images of Italy." I replied, laughing, "What do you want to do, send me over there?" He said, "Yes." A few weeks later, I was flying over the Atlantic and on my way to Florence. That’s one phone call I’m glad I didn’t screen! Jay called me in July and said he was opening in September. That’s not much time to do research, order film, travel, shoot, edit and label 60 rolls of film, mat and frame selected images and hang the show before the doors open! As a photojournalist, however, I’m used to the pressure to produce under the constraints of deadlines so I was up for the challenge. Being an inexperienced traveler, I had my work cut out for me. I was fortunate to have a traveling companion, who had been to the Tuscany region before. That was a tremendous help - from guiding me through customs, to traveling to destinations that were worthy of documentation, to the knowledge of historic buildings, etc. Jay gave me lots of freedom with the project. His directions were simply to bring back the taste of Italy. I left Aug. 16 and returned on the 26th. Travel days on each end were long and exhausting with a missed connecting flight and lost luggage, which had half my film in it. That incident also kept us in the same clothes for a few days. That wasn’t very pleasant. I learned that Italy in August is filled with tourists; after the buses drop them off it looks more like Disney World than ancient Italy. It made me work even harder to find the locals. The tour books mention that August is probably the worst time to visit because of the high volume of tourists and the extreme heat. This was true; especially when one is carrying photo equipment. Having to maneuver through bodies, and carry the extra weight while hot and sweaty was a challenge. Many people in Europe take the month of August for vacation so I had limited access to places since they were closed. I managed to shoot more than 2,000 images, regardless. Although I had an Italian dictionary( a must), not speaking the language was a barrier. My desire was to capture the locals and their way of life, but in order to get below the surface and gain the trust of your subjects, you need to be able to communicate. The only skills I had were limited to single terms like buon giorno, arrivederci, grazie, prego, and a lot of smiling. A smile, however, goes a long way in life; it’s universal. I used my longer lens, the 80-200 mm when I didn’t sense that it was OK to be in someone’s personal space, and my wide angle, 17-35 mm when I wanted to take a chance. I carried two camera bodies with me and one flash, which I hardly ever used. I like to shoot available light whenever possible. I have never seen such beautiful countryside. But in August, most of the crops had passed and much of the land was already turned over. The land was extremely dry and cracked and lacked the richness of color. I drove through miles and miles of fields of brown, dead sunflowers. What a bummer to have just missed that colorful scene! Even though the land lacked color, the content was captivating and yes, a photographer’s dream. The light constantly changes and subject matter changes with it. After a long day of traveling by car and foot through the hills and small towns in Tuscany, all I wanted to do was go to dinner and relax. Storm clouds moved in and created a dramatic scene, so we decided to hop back in the car and capture it on film for a few more hours. That was characteristic of the whole trip. Now that I’m back, the whole experience seems surreal. However, I have more than 2,000 images to remind me that it was real. It was tiring, inspiring, overwhelming and unforgettable. I hope I was able to bring "a taste of Italy" to Radici, Jay’s restaurant. I can’t wait to go back. Florence: Big city which feels safe. Modes of transportation most used are bicycles and vespas(motor scooters), which make for great photos. Architecture is breathtaking and the Galleria degli Uffizi( art gallery) is a must-see with works by Botticelli and other famous artists. The Mercato Centrale( central market), is full of great subject matter. This is where all the locals buy their meats from their favorite butchers. The cobblestone paths along narrow streets are filled with wonderful old doors, which makes the scene breathtaking as the light spills over it. Climbing towers or entering buildings so you can get a better perspective of the city is a good idea. Streets are active at night with street performers and people looking for gelateria(Italian ice cream). In Florence and all the small towns I visited, people start their day in a cafe, drinking cappuccino or espresso while standing for a short time and then they move on. I really enjoyed the tradition. The Pontevecchio is beautiful. Family busine sses selling gold have been there for centuries. The bridge is the only one the Germans didn’t blow up in World War II. Pienza: Sweet, quaint town. Countryside is gorgeous and best seen by car so you can pull over and take photos at your leisure. Keep in mind that Italian drivers like to travel quickly so the best thing to do is pull over and let them pass. Driving is intimidating at first but you catch on and it’s the best way to travel if you are shooting. Exploring the town at all hours of the day by foot is the best way to capture it all. Most places close at 8 p.m. and the elder locals come to the center of town and converse with each other as they stretch out on stoops of homes or stores. It gives you a warm, fuzzy feeling. Montalcino: Many vineyards here and the Brunello wine made from Sangiovese grape is most popular and most expensive. It is aged at least four years before it can be sold. If you like wine, this is the place to be. The countryside is filled with vineyards, which you can photograph from the road but you usually need to make an appointment to get into one. We found a wonderful, small vineyard named Altesino, which was run by two women, and they were kind enough to give us a personal tour by just showing up. I would’ve loved to shoot the harvesting but that occurs in September. Montepulciano: Fantastic wines here too. There are quaint shops in ancient buildings in the medieval town filled with cobblestone and narrow streets. All these small towns offered unique shops, which sold a variety of cheeses, especially, Pecorino made from sheep’s milk. Another popular item is wild boar. San Gimignano: The architecture and town square dates back to the 13th and 14th centuries. It’s astounding to think I stood near something so old. We have no concept of this experience in the United States. Lucca: Small town totally enclosed by a wall. Wonderful shops and great food. Extremely difficult to maneuver a car because of the extremely narrow streets and one-way signs. I loved seeing people of all ages riding their bicycles through town on their daily missions. Renting bikes while visiting is a good idea, although I wouldn’t recommend shooting while pedaling; trust me on this. |
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